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Among all the collectors, few have focused on embroidered costumes, and even fewer have dedicated themselves to collecting cheongsams. The term "cheongsam" has been broadened over time, with many people associating it with Qing Dynasty gowns. However, the cheongsam I’m referring to here is specifically the modern style that features a high collar, tailored waist, and side slits—though not necessarily all at once. It's essentially a one-piece Chinese dress.
Many modern women wear cheongsams today, but not all of them hold significant value. Those that maintain traditional charm while incorporating contemporary fashion elements, however, do possess collectible appeal. Still, most collectors are less interested in mass-produced items. If someone is serious about collecting cheongsams, their attention will naturally turn to the Republican era (1912–1949), a period rich in cultural transformation.
The early 20th century was a time of great turmoil in China, marked by wars and social changes. Historians often focus on the political or economic aspects of this era, but the Republic of China was also a pivotal moment in the evolution of Chinese fashion. The blending of Eastern and Western influences, along with the tension between tradition and modernity, led to an eclectic and beautifully diverse style—of which the cheongsam became a perfect symbol.
The cheongsams from the Republic era were not yet fully defined as we understand them today. They were neither purely traditional nor fleeting trends. The term “cheongsam†was initially a shorthand for the “long robe,†and after the Republic, no other cheongsam reached the same level of refinement and artistry.
Materials used during this time varied widely. Traditional damask, cashmere embroidery, and printed silks were common, alongside lighter, trendier fabrics like Leica hollow cloth, which had been used in the Qing Dynasty but became popular in summer cheongsams during the Republic era. Common materials such as incense yarns and summer cloth were favored by the general public for their comfort and practicality.
The design of cheongsams evolved significantly. Tailoring techniques were introduced to highlight the female figure, a major departure from the loose-fitting Qing Dynasty robes. Collars became more structured, ranging from high to low, while sleeves shifted from wide, stacked designs to more streamlined versions. The placement of slits and the overall silhouette reflected changing aesthetics.
Decorative elements became simpler and more modern, with geometric patterns replacing elaborate floral motifs. Colors remained elegant, though vibrant hues were still used for ceremonial occasions, such as red for symbolism and celebration.
Today, many Republican-era cheongsams remain in private hands, but they are rarely found in museums. Chinese institutions often overlook them as too recent, while specialized museums like the China Silk Museum show some interest, though their collections are limited. The National Palace Museum in Beijing holds some of the finest Republican cheongsams, and the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto has a notable collection, largely acquired through missionaries and merchants.
The Victoria and Albert Museum in London has an extensive collection of ancient Chinese textiles, but recently has begun actively seeking artifacts from the Republic era, including cheongsams. Most of these pieces were collected in the early 20th century when cheongsams were still fashionable and easily accessible. Today, they are much harder to find and more expensive.
In China, antique shops rarely stock cheongsams. I once bought a group of late-night cheongsam-like garments in Shanghai’s Yan’an Road for a very low price, only to be told by the shopkeeper they weren’t considered true cheongsams. On Fuyou Road and other old craft stalls, you might occasionally find some, but quality is hard to come by.
Where can the beautiful, authentic cheongsams be found now? Perhaps in the closet of an elderly woman or hidden in the attic of a large family. For collectors, the search continues.
June 26, 2025